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Photo: Zoom Flume Water ParkCatskills Weekend

Eighteenth-century Catskill legend has it that Rip Van Winkle fell asleep in the mountains and awoke 20 years later, surprised at the changes he encountered. Today, he would have been astounded: the Catskills, still steeped in mystery, are alive with amusement parks, game farms, and more.

Get an overview of this land of legend on the Delaware and Ulster Rail Ride (914/586-DURR, 800/225-4132), which will take you on an old fashioned train ride through scenic countryside. The train coaches are 1920-vintage -- some even open-air. On weekends, you may have a "real" train robbery, be hosted by a giant teddy bear or, in fall, take a Halloween ghost train.

Take in a family favorite, the Catskill Game Farm (518/678-9595), in Catskill. Here you will find 2000 wild, rare and tame animals, a play area, and a half-mile train ride to see birds in their natural habitat.

Cool off nearby, at the Zoom Flume Water Park (518/239-4559), in Durham. There's a water slide, canyon plunge and waterfall for those who want to get wet. Dry-side, there's an arcade that will keep the games players busy.

Or take the family to the Kaaterskill Falls, one of the tallest and most beautiful waterfalls in the state. The base of the falls has large, flat rocks where you can picnic or watch the mesmerizing cascade. This is a natural treasure, not found on most maps. Take Exit 21 off the New York State Thruway (I-87) to Route 23 to Route 23A. This will bring you through a winding road that hugs the hillside. The trailhead to the falls is along Route 23A at the sharpest of many hairpin turns. A small waterfall marks the entrance. A parking area is located nearby (along with a hot dog truck stand). It is approximately two miles to Kaaterskill Falls along a well marked trail.

Complete your Catskill stay with another hiking experience of a very different sort. Explore Ice Caves Mountain (914/647-7989), in Cragsmoor, a hiking tour through rugged mountain terrain. A cassette tape is provided so that at numbered stops you can learn about the environment at this National Landmark.

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