The Adirondacks: America's first golf destination

LAKE PLACID, N.Y. -- Adirondack Park is six million acres of upstate New York. Even today, traveling through the park on I-87 you get the feeling of remoteness. The entire population of the park is only about 150,000.

The village of Lake Placid, site of the 1932 and 1980 winter Olympic games, is the region's best known community. Mt. Marcy's summit soars to 5,344 feet and is the highest peak in the mountainous region. The sixth largest body of fresh water in the U.S., Lake Champlain forms most of the eastern border of park. Bitter cold and heavy snow dominate the landscape from late fall to early spring. All of those factors make the Adirondack region an unlikely golf destination, let alone America's first.

During the latter half of the 19th century, residents of New York City began flocking to the Adirondacks during the heat of the summer months. City dwellers couldn't flip on the air conditioning during a stifling heat wave, and they needed to get away. The average 75-degree temps during the summer were an obvious magnet for the city folk who boarded trains that made their way into the remote areas of upstate N.Y.

Peter Martin has been the head professional at White face Club in Lake Placid since 1978. He grew up in the Adirondacks and learned his love for the game by carrying bags at some of the area's top courses. In 1987, the one time college professor wrote Adirondack Golf Courses ... Past and Present.

"I think you could argue the Adirondacks has as rich a golfing tradition as any place in the country," Martin said.

As hotels sprung up throughout the mountains during the latter part of the 1800's, golf became one of the primary past times. "These folks were well to do and it was a time when golf was enjoying its first strong wave of popularity among the upper class in this country," he said. "It was almost as though the hotel operators up here had to offer golf, so the courses got built."

Dozens of courses were built in the decade prior to and after the turn of the 20th century, most of them associated with a hotel or resort. Many of them were closed or abandoned during the Great Depression or World War II. But some of the legacy of that early golfing boom remains. Here are some of those historic Adirondack courses you can still play today.

Sagamore Golf Club - Opened in 1928 and designed by Donald Ross, it's one of the best the region has to offer. It is affiliated with the nearby Sagamore resort and boasts excellent playing conditions in a beautiful woodland setting.

Thendara Golf Club - Another Ross layout, it's in the middle of nowhere, but worth the effort to get find it. Ross actually designed nine holes there, but when the second nine was added it was designed to match the original. The course record is held by the late Dave Marr, PGA Championship winner and TV commentator.

Lake Placid Resort Courses - The Links Course dates back to 1909 and was designed by Seymour Dunn. The course looks like it belongs in Scotland, and is just a classic. Dunn was the original head professional there and a busy architect who did many courses in the Adirondacks. The Mountain Course opened a year later. The famed architect Alister MacKenzie, who lists Augusta National among his work, did some remodeling in the 1930s. It's a strong compliment to the Links.

Westport Country Club - Sheep were used to keep the fairway grass low when the original course opened. The current 18-hole layout was built in the 1920s. It affords great views of Lake Champlain and Vermont's Green Mountains.

Saranac Inn Golf Course - Another Seymour Dunn course and likely his best work. The course dates to 1907, but it holds up well. It's also in an out of the way locale, but worth hunting down. It's still a true championship challenge.

Inlet Golf Club - Another backwoods course that offers scenery, wildlife and better-than-average golf. It opened as a five-hole layout, expanded to 12 holes and now has the standard 18.

Tupper Lake Country Club - Opened in 1932, it was crafted by the prolific Ross. It commands nice views of the lake. It was once the site of a prominent tournament, won by the likes of tour pros Lee Elder and Wayne Levi.

Ticonderoga Golf Course - Another course that opened in 1932, it's located on the site of a famous French and Indian War battlefield. Another example of Dunn's work.

Craig Wood Golf Course - It opened in 1925 as the Lake Placid Country Club and here too Seymour Dunn was the architect. The course changed names in the 1950s to honor the local golf hero. It's municipally owned by the town of North Elba, but it's much better than the typical muni.

Nick Stoner Municipal Golf Course - More along the lines of the standard municipal course, owned by the town of Caroga. It gets its name from a famous hunter and trapper who served as a major in the Revolutionary War.

Whiteface Golf Club - Two earlier courses that were a part of the once-sprawling resort, were replaced in 1930 by the present 18-hole layout designed by John Van Kleek. The great Walter Hagen was also bought in as an adviser. The course has hosted numerous state championships.

The verdict

A tour through the Adirondacks in the summer provides a nice break from the heat. But the best time to play could be in late September when the days are still warm, but the nighttime chill has started to turn the leaves into blazing fall colors. Looking for an upscale experience? Play Sagamore and Lake Placid resort. Most of the other stops will be no frills, backwoods, mountain golf.

Where to stay

The Wawbeek ((518) 359-2656) on Upper Saranac Lake is built in the style of the traditional Great Camps. The Big Moose Inn ((315) 357-2042) on Big Moose Lake provides more of that traditional back woods feel, but with all the modern conveniences.

Where to eat

Regional cuisine focuses on game. At the Verandah Restaurant in Lake Placid, try the Adirondack Duck Breast. At the Hungry Trout Restaurant in Wilmington, order the Adirondack Sampler for a combo of trout, venison and duck.

Off course

The Adirondacks present endless outdoor opportunities. It's a fisherman's paradise. The West Brach of the Ausable River is scenic and has a five-mile stretch that's strictly catch and release. The native trout are targets of anglers who aren't looking for their catch to go into the frying pan. If you want to head for deeper water and a bigger prize, like northern pike or landlocked salmon, Lake Champlain is the place to be.

Fast fact

The New York City millionaire who is credited with opening the Adirondacks to development in the 1800's, William West Durant spent $70,000 to build Eagles Nest Country Club. Durant hired the legendary Harry Vardon to play a series of exhibitions there during the summer of 1900. Vardon's fee for the week was $500 and a bottle of Scotch every night.

September 29, 2005